Tree Removal
Whole-tree takedowns and sectional dismantles, including trees with nowhere safe to drop a stem.
Learn more →The same cut gives a very different result on a marri, a tuart and a Cocos palm.
Marri (Corymbia calophylla). The workhorse of Perth backyards and the source of a great deal of the reduction work south of the river. Reduces well to laterals, reshoots readily, and tolerates a sensible crown lift off a roofline. Watch for marri canker in the trunk and for heavy gumnut loads on paving and pool surrounds — seed and fruit removal is a real service request here, not an oddity.
Jarrah (Eucalyptus marginata). Dense, slow and structurally sound. Most common through the foothills at Armadale, Gosnells and Kalamunda and in older gardens on the scarp side. Because it grows slowly, a reduction lasts a long time. Because the timber is hard, the job takes longer than it looks.
Tuart (Eucalyptus gomphocephala). The coastal limestone eucalypt, from Fremantle and Cockburn down through Kwinana and Rockingham. Big, long lived and locally significant. Mature tuarts are worth pruning conservatively rather than reducing hard, and in some coastal councils they attract extra scrutiny.
Lemon-scented gum (Corymbia citriodora). Not native to Perth and planted here in enormous numbers. Tall, smooth, beautiful and the biggest single cause of summer branch drop callouts in the metro area. Reducing the long lateral limbs over driveways and pools before December is the standard management job. Where one sits within a few metres of a house, the conversation is usually about removal instead.
WA peppermint (Agonis flexuosa). Everywhere in coastal gardens, salt tolerant, often multi-stemmed with tight co-dominant unions that split. Reduces well. Cabling is sometimes the better answer than cutting.
Norfolk Island pine, Cocos palm, olive, Cape lilac, jacaranda. The planted exotics. The conifers cannot be reduced without leaving permanent gaps; the palms are tidied, not cut back; the rest are straightforward.
Late winter into early spring is the general window. Growth is slower, the structure is visible, and the tree has the whole of spring to respond before the heat.
The things to avoid: taking substantial live crown off in the middle of a hot, dry January, when the tree is already water stressed and freshly exposed bark can scorch; and leaving hazard reduction on big gums until after the easterlies have started. Hazard and storm work, of course, happens whenever it is needed.
Two wind regimes shape trees here. The summer easterlies come in hot and dry off the interior in the mornings; the sea breeze comes in hard from the south-west most summer afternoons. Coastal trees at Fremantle, Cockburn, Rockingham and Secret Harbour carry salt burn on the exposed side and lean away from it.
That matters when pruning, because a crown that has adapted to a consistent one-directional load is balanced for that load. Taking material off the sheltered side, or reducing only the branches overhanging a neighbour, can leave a tree less stable than before it was touched.
The council rules are set locally — Western Australia has no statewide tree preservation order — so check the service areas page for your local government. For what the work involves and what it should and should not look like, see the tree lopping service page. For the price, the cost guide.
Call (08) 9516 2804 for a free onsite quote.
Whole-tree takedowns and sectional dismantles, including trees with nowhere safe to drop a stem.
Learn more →Height and spread reduced where a tree has outgrown its spot, cut to a lateral rather than a stub.
Learn more →Deadwooding, crown thinning, crown lifting and roof and powerline clearance on established trees.
Learn more →Stumps ground below grade so you can turf, pave or replant over the top. Fast work in Perth sand.
Learn more →Full stump and root-plate extraction where the ground has to be clear for a slab, pool or footing.
Learn more →Marri, jarrah and most eucalypts tolerate a moderate reduction cut back to laterals, and they reshoot readily. WA peppermint handles reduction well and is often multi-stemmed, which gives plenty of options. Conifers, including Norfolk Island pines, do not — they will not reshoot from bare wood and a hard cut leaves a permanent hole.
Palms are not reduced, they are tidied. Old fronds, seed heads and dead skirts come off, and that is the whole job. Cutting into the crown of a palm kills it, because a palm has a single growing point at the top and cannot replace it. Anyone offering to shorten a palm is offering to remove it slowly.
Yes, on the coastal suburbs. The afternoon south-westerly is strong, reliable and salt laden, and trees from Fremantle and Cockburn down to Secret Harbour grow leaning away from it. Reducing only the sheltered side of a tree that has adapted to that load leaves it worse balanced than it started.
It reduces the exposure but does not eliminate the phenomenon. Shortening long horizontal limbs takes weight and leverage out of the parts most likely to fail, which is worthwhile over a driveway or pool. It is risk management rather than a cure, and it is best done before the hot weather rather than after something lands.